Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo, 1903 - 1913
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Albania. Shelcan. The village of Shelcan in the central Albanian Shpat region, near Elbasan
(Photo: Edith Durham, 22 April 1904).
“We crossed Kurd Pasha’s bridge, followed the river up-stream a little, and then struck into the
Shpata district. It was a quite perfect spring day; the hillsides, well covered with copse-wood, were
full of wild plum and cherry all blossoming, and the ground was gay with big butterfly and bee
orchises. As for the lizards, they were the fattest and greenest I have ever met. The valley was but
feebly cultivated. Men in cartridge-belts and fustanellas were guiding their primitive ploughs —
crooked bits of wood, ironshod, each drawn by a couple of buffaloes — through what appeared to
be very rich soil. We halted a few minutes at a very lovely spot, to which the town comes for ‘kief’
in the summer. ‘Kief’ means pleasure, and pleasure means doing nothing in the shade, by running
water. A kavajee brings a tray of hot charcoal, on which he makes coffee, and everyone is content.
A group of vast plane-trees shaded a grassy meadow, through which ran a clear and ice-cold stream
which bubbled out of a cliff of gray rock that rose on one side. An ideal spot.” (Edith Durham,
The Burden of the Balkans, 1905)